Hearth & Horn

One cool new thing in my life is, I've started making tunics, robes and capes for the community. I'm really enjoying it. Historic costuming has been my thing for years now, and im finally "working" in it. And tunics and capes are simple shapes, so it's a good opportunity to get good.

(Hit me up if you need something made - Im happy to make these unshaped garments internationally)

However, one stressful thing is that I'm now the worst dressed of everyone around me. And im not yet sure what my "look" should be.

Reconstrucionists have it easiest. You can either cosplay in historic garb, or wear a simple robe/contemporary clothes combined with a symbol or two. Perhaps you've got contemporary clothes which echo the shape of historic garb. Beards and long hair on men, long hair and plaits on women, often help the vibe.

So do wizards, mages and ceremonial sorts - where appropriate robe colours and designs are usually laid down in detail.

Well, I do animist Pagan religion by day, and trad witchcraft by night, and ceremonial chaos is my hobby and passion so...There's no one thing there which gives a distinct visual identity or personal aesthetic. Basically, I don't want to be left out when my mates all dress up - which is a harder problem to solve, it turns out, than wanting to look like a heathen, a shaman or druid.

Compounding the problem, as ever, is gender. I'm actually in favour of trying to reclaim the pointy black witches hat as formal religious dress. But certainly, anything which says "witch" usually says "woman". I like witch designs which are all skirts and boots and striped socks; and I also like the elegant contemporary witch aesthetic used in shows like American Horror Story: Coven and the Chilling Adventures of Sabrina. And I love the digital art people are producing on tumblr and so on, of "modern witch" looks - but these are dominated by female looks, by and large. And given where I am in transition and life, I do want something which helps polite onlookers gender me correctly.

I'm a big fan of dressing up. And ritually, I'm a big supporter of dressing like a goddamned witch. Make believe and dreaming is part of what we do; and so, I'd encourage anyone to hear their inner child and really try and embody their desire. Both in ritual garb, and your everyday look. I'm old and have lived too long, and I think I would like to look obviously, visually magical as often as I can. I think you can take the idea of ritual garb as serious and significant too far, away from a playful place. And that play can be powerful too.

Anyway, I'm working on a couple of cape designs - I do know I want a hooded cape. I want to get green waxed jacket fabric, or maybe goretex, lined with wool and fur. One thing you come to appreciate as a historic tailor is the importance of "real" fabrics. Most cheaper fabrics are blended with plastics, and this changes how the fabric looks, moves, feels, and responds to sweat and rain. A Viking tunic made of Viking fabric will *work* to keep you warm and cool. One made of acrylic may look alright, but it'll be a costume that functions like costume. And generally, not having the right fabric is the number 1 thing which makes ritual garb look a bit costumey.

(I want to stress there's naught wrong with that - especially because it's so much more affordable - unless the wearer feels like it's a problem. The goal of garb is always to empower and delight the wearer first and foremost)

But ive also got an absolutely ludicrous, Lucifer Rising inspired shimmery rainbow cape idea and...I really think I want one...and that's the joy you're supposed to chase and capture in garb-making. And it'll make me stand out among my buddies as a person who knows which way round to hold a double headed wand. It'll also make me stand out period, and not in a good way :p but...you have to chase that excitement and joy.

As for designing your look, I don't think you should be bound by historic accuracy for this. Fantasy films and art are also excellent sources. Note, I still think you should choose a realistic fabric, but the cut and colours of your garb ought to match the shape of your desire. So think Sabrina, Company of Wolves, Labyrinth, Tolkien, Excalibur, whatever things first gave you joy. Reconnecting with the fantasy fiction which made us want to be witches is, IMO, entirely underrated. No matter how serious and skilled we get in the craft, I find returning to those sources always grounds me and reminds me of who I wanted to be. These films have defined the "look" of magic users for both us and the general public, and many have world class designers, so in a sense we'd be mad not to study them for ideas.

Anyway, thems me thoughts. Deciding on a visual identity as an eclectic is hard work! Or, and excuse to fill your wardrobe...